Vienna, Austria is consistently rated among the cities with the highest quality of life. I agree with that evaluation. Here’s one example.
I had some time on my hands early on a Saturday morning. I decided to visit a public park that I normally wouldn’t visit.
Playground spaces always speak to me: How much room is there to run and jump? How many different ways can kids challenge themselves and their dexterity? How many pieces of equipment are designed for multiple children? How is fun built into the design of the space? This part offered a series of playgrounds and play spaces, including the skater park at the top. All of it looked so welcoming. I was fascinated by these giant swings that I actually put down my backpack and had a go. It was calming and delightful.
While I was composing this on my cell phone, the post published before I could finish. I wanted to describe the things I saw and how they struck me, like this tree above. I had never seen one like it before. It was a needle tree but in the shape of a deciduous tree. I was genuinely fascinated. Trunk like a cypress and these very bright light green fingers of needles hanging down and the roots threatening to burst its concrete casing.
Since it was so early in the morning, the park was nearly empty and gloriously peaceful. Ponds, fountains and rolling green spaces made me feel incredibly grateful for the time I took to explore and discover. Privilege in action. That’s part of quality of life.
Vienna is the city. Austria, the country. This place. These places belong to who I am, who I am becoming.
This is where I have matured into adulthood. It is most likely where I will grow old.
This slideshow is a way for me to put myself in context for you and me. I see these places and I see myself but my challenge, alas, remains the capacity to see myself in these places and in turn, see these places -and their meanings – in me.
In Austria, primary school (Volksschule) is a four year affair. Children are taught in grades one through four by the same homeroom teacher and the school day typically lasts four to five hours. When school ends at 12 or 1pm, students either go home or attend some form of after school care known as Hort.
The Hort may or may not be housed in the same building as the school. For my oldest son, his Hort group was one of three housed in an adjacent building along with two or three all-day Kindergarten groups for children ages 3-6. My youngest son, now finishing up first grade, walks along with several classmates to his Hort about a quarter mile from his school. His Hort group shares the building with two Kindergarten groups and three other Hort groups. Through the City of Vienna, parents may apply to have their children attend Hort and if both parents are employed, a spot is guaranteed. There are also private Hort groups around town and parents who are looking for part time solutions (i.e., only a couple of days per week or early pick up) may take advantage of these options. In terms of expense, public Hort costs about 200 Euros per month and is available at a reduced rate for low-income families and families with more than one child. Lunch and afternoon snacks are included. Hort usually stays open until 5:30pm (as was also true for Kindergarten when they were younger) and also offers care during the summer months with reduced staff.
Throughout this year, I have thought often of what it is about Hort that I find so appealing. My oldest loved it, often more than school, and his younger brother seems similarly enthusiastic. Considering that this is where children can spend up to 15 to 20 hours of their school week, that degree of happiness and satisfaction can go a long way. Before I came to Austria and enrolled my first child in public Kindergarten and then school, I didn’t know what Hort was. I had perhaps heard the term but lacked context to give it real meaning. As both his father and I were working full-time, there was no question that he would attend a Hort after school.
Here’s what happens in Hort: children are assigned to multi-aged groups of 20-25 where there are two adult teachers. The students receive lunch, have some break time, then there is a study period of about an hour for children to complete homework assignments. After that there are varied options: free play indoors or out, structured and unstructured arts and crafts projects. Currently Hort is decidedly low-tech. Options for play are hands-on, no screens. When I arrive in the house I am always struck by the liveliness and noise level. Kids are up and about, moving between groups. There are play areas outside the group rooms used by both Hort kids and kindergartners.
When I pick up my 7 year old in the afternoons he is often busy building, drawing, crafting one thing or another. Or I find him outside playing soccer or digging in the sand or jumping rope. The kids he plays with come from a variety of backgrounds Turkish, Nigerian, Austrian, Slovak and British, and they do not all attend the same primary school. He has friends who are in 2nd, 3rd and 4th grades as well as good friends from his homeroom. Many live in fairly close proximity to the Hort and school, so that it’s common to run into families at the local shopping center during the week or on weekends. Having my child attend school and Hort in our neighborhood has an added bonus: I have a fresh sense of neighborliness – the positive feeling I derive from seeing people whom I know live and work and go to school in a small geographic area accompanied by a desire to show kindness and good will towards those people. Even in this big city, I enjoy a feeling of community which is tied directly to my child’s school and his Hort. I never knew how much I would appreciate this quality in my adult life as I do now.
As I have spent so much time this year reading at length about K-12 education in North America, it has enabled me to look at Hort and Volksschule with different eyes, not only as a parent but as an observer of education systems. What appears to work well for kids? What is different or unique about this approach to schooling primary students?
Hort is separate from school and falls under a different arm of city administration. It’s purpose is after-school care. In the same sense as Kindergarten is a form of early child care. This division from school is an important one. It is a division which allows Hort to become a place where school children get to master being children: How to get along with kids of different ages and types, how to negotiate participation in play in multiple forms, how to deal with adults who set limits and also encourage independence, and how to make friends and keep them. The supervising adults are trained specifically for guiding this age group in this context: a huge emphasis is placed on social-emotional learning. During the homework hour Hort instructors encourage children to assist each other and offer deeper support where needed. More specifically, the Hort instructors know and understand the value of play in the lives of their charges. They encourage, facilitate, moderate and welcome play and it shows. The role they are allowed to take on for their students means that they can become trust partners in a different way from the classroom teacher. Similar to a classroom teacher, they observe, build relationships, offer guidance and clear parameters, and take an active interest in their students but they do not grade the child’s academic progress or behaviors.
This is not about competing agendas between school and Hort. On the contrary, the structures complement each other quite well. Kids can enjoy Hortand school, experience success and challenge in both environments. It is the combination that strikes me as a winning option. My child’s academic success seems hardly jeopardized by fewer hours of “seat time” at school. Rather his natural curiosity and creativity receive an extra boost by time spent among different peers with the freedom to engage in far more choice activities. And he’s happy when I pick him up. Our kids need all of these elements.
As North American PK-12 education continues its steady pursuit of higher academic standards at younger and younger ages, I worry that we may be stealing more from our children in the short and long term than they or we could possibly hope to gain. Shrinking opportunities for free play, punishment for children and schools which are deemed failing, ongoing devaluation of teacher expertise in policy formulation and implementation – common themes in North American PK-12 discussion, these all contribute to my fear of harm to children in such systems. The Austrian public education system certainly has its own set of weaknesses, yet there are parts of the system which make a lot of sense to me as a parent and as an educator. Hort as an institution is one of those parts the system can be proud of.
September 2015 will mark the 30th anniversary of my arrival in Austria. At the time I was planning on a semester. That semester extended to a year and after a few years of back and forth between the US and Vienna, I settled here in 1991.
As a US Citizen and an African-American one at that, I am a foreigner here. While I did not grow-up here, this is the city and country in which I have come of age. When I move through town I know where I am going and people ask me for directions. I am a foreigner at home.
Vienna is an exceptionally beautiful city which is kept remarkably clean and well groomed. It has a clear and seemingly unconflicted understanding of itself as a primary tourist destination. The historical buildings, extensive parks and central pedestrian areas remind the locals exactly what part of the economy is paying a good chunk of the bills. Having lived here so long it is easy to forget what a downright marvelous location this is. That’s how it is when you become local – you find faults much more easily than wonder.
At the same time, I didn’t settle in Vienna because of its imperial history or architectural gems. Rather I stayed because of the people I met: the welcome they offered, the interest they showed, the curiosity they shared, the enthusiasm I encountered when I spoke the language. During my first few years here, brown people were not a particularly common sight. I fielded a lot of questions from Austrians about where I was from and how I liked it here “with us” (“Wie gefaellt es Dir hier bei uns?”).
Several years in I found that the question no longer fit. I had somehow outgrown it. When I asked myself I found that my questions had less to do with whether or not I liked it here, rather the emphasis was on what I liked here and what made it evident that I would stay; what made it unlikely that there would be a return “home” (to the US). Small wonder, home was and is right here.
And the “what” that keeps me here? Let me count the ways:
Vienna is a remarkably safe city.
It’s clean, tidy and well-groomed to a fault.
Water and air quality are impeccable.
City services are numerous and work reliably well.
Public transportation deserves awards – it’s extensive, user-friendly and affordable.
City-run early childhood care (Kindergaerten) stands out as child-centered, family-friendly and simply well-planned.
Health care is guaranteed.
The city has green spaces large and small throughout and is buffered on 3 sides by the Vienna Woods.
Cultural offerings are off the charts in terms of quality and variety and access to public museums, concerts and opera is made possible through city support.
Stores are closed on Sundays (which means that people find other ways to spend their time and money).
Public education, while traditional, works.
And those are just several external variables that make for an excellent quality of life. Of course, relationships to family, friends, colleagues and acquaintances create the foundation for staying and flourishing here. That said, it seems important to point out those every day conveniences and privileges which contribute to a great life. They are huge blessings and not to be taken for granted.